NGERINGA Altus 2008
Available to SOLSTICE members only
wine inspired by the traditional Tuscan Vin Santo, a divine oxidative style
for the first time purely from estate-grown NGERINGA fruit, predominantly
Viognier with our small quantities of Gewürtztraminer and Pinot Gris. All the
grapes are very gently hand harvested, placed on drying racks previously used
by Jurlique for drying herbs, and left to more than double their sugar
concentration from about 13 to around 30 degrees Baumé by process of
Orange marmalade, caramel, aniseed and resin on the nose. Macadamia and brazil nuts, white chocolate, quince paste and almond biscuit on the palate. This uncommonly attractive dessert wine has the musk and pith characteristics of sherry tempered by the alluring sweetness of mandarins and perfume of blossoms. Balanced tannins and tight acidity.
The grapes were dehydrated on racks for 4 weeks, then pressed and in a 100 litre barrel. The wine was left to its own devices for the next 5 years prior to bottling in Autumn 2012.
Traditionally in the making of Vin Santo the bung is cemented in and the barrels are neither topped nor even opened for 4 to 5 years. Although we do not cement the bungs as we like to follow the wines progress during its time in barrel, the barrel does remain un-topped. A wine of the saints!
Wild fermentation, oxidative handling, spontaneous malolactic fermentation, no temperature control. No fining. Estate bottled.
had a different rhythm to 2007. We had a glimmer of average winter rainfall
followed by a dry spring. Temperatures throughout January and February were mild,
ideal ripening conditions it seemed.
Silly we were however to think that Gaia didn’t carry some summer fury –
a record-breaking spell of extreme temperatures occurred in early March. The
heat was less detrimental to the grapes destined for the Altus as the
concentration process of dehydration had already begun on the vines. All our
other grapes destined for table wine had to be vigorously sorted to remove
MAX ALLEN Gourmet Traveller October 2012 Top Drops of the Month: Made in the style of a Tuscan vin
santo from viognier grapes dehydrated on racks then pressed into a small barrel
and left for five years. Gorgeous, rich and tangy flavours of candied peel and
spice. Drink with biscotti.
MIKE BENNIE www.winefront.com.au 4 October 2012 A nod in the direction of vin santo – grapes get dried, Baume hits around 30, pressed into 100 litre barrel then left to its own devices for four years or so. Wild ferment, oxidation, malolactic fermentation happens, no temperature control. It’s made mostly from viognier with some gewurztraminer and pinot gris. Stuff happens… Has an earthy, decomposing aroma in that sweet putrefaction of fruit kind of way. Raisins, figs, dates chime in as the secondary notes, some garam masala and curry powder too. The kick of cedary spice and alcohol sweetness lends great personality to the palate – it’s slick, a touch hot, peppered with quince and nuttiness, but refreshes through the back palate with crisp acidity. Great after dinner wine no doubt, lots of spice and concentrated slipperiness of dried fruits and dusty, dark chocolate stuff going on too. Pretty successful version, if you’re into this stuff.
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