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PHILIP WHITE
94 points. If you know of a better Australian viognier than this, I'll share the cost of getting Chopper Reid round here to teach me the truth. After an acrid top note like a shot of snuff ground from the spring meadows and the sandstones and schists in the Mount Barker piedmont there's a quiet pond of pear and apricot and a little fresh ginger, poaching gently with cloves, with a crême caramel pouting alongside, as tender as a breast. In the rolling around the mouth and swallowing division, it bungs on the unction, which is abundant in warm and hot area viognier, especially if you let it hang. It turns to peach syrup. But from such cool slopes as Ngeringa, at mercifully modest alcohol, it's a stunning rarity. All that lovely natural acid! And then the tannin rolls in, as grainy and parching as that first whiff of the country when we put the window down. Right now, in this bonnie spring, under the burgeoning moon. Biodynamic breakthrough by Erinn and Janet Klein. Kangaroo Island paddock chook steady stewed in shiraz barrel lees with fresh leafy herbs, whole onions, little beetroots and garlic ... fresh baguette, lots of butter and peppery water cress. Open the bugger, pour two, light up a Lucky and wait for Chopper.